7/06/2015

Mitch Tonks: roast red sea bream, artichokes, tomatoes and verdicchio

Selin Kiazim’s marinated aubergine, candied aubergine puree, bitter leaves and smoked almonds: ‘Summer brings the chance to experiment with all that gorgeous seasonal fruit and veg.’ Photograph: Rob White. Food styling: Cara Hobday
Lunches are long in our house. We’ll kick off with a magnum of rosé, and all the wines will be planned in advance – after all, what you drink with a meal is almost as important as the food. A few anchovies, or a crab, or some burrata will be our antipasti, there’ll be some sort of pasta as a middle course – Giorgio’s mullet dish would fit the bill nicely – and for main we’ll share a whole fish. We live right next to the fish market in Brixham, so are lucky to have the pick of the best. We’ll finish with cheese and fruit, then roll into coffee and spirits, with the table thinning out as we hit the sofa one by one, marking the end of another great meal in the company of the people I love most. Serves four.

Olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced fine
1 white onion, peeled and finely sliced
8 small artichokes, cleaned and taken down to the heart
4 very ripe tomatoes
300ml dry white wine (verdicchio for preference)
Salt and pepper
2 x 700-900g red sea bream, scaled and gutted
2 lemons


Pour a few glugs of olive oil into a roasting tin, heat on the hob, then add the garlic and onion, and cook for a few minutes, until softened. Add the artichokes and tomatoes, and cook gently for two or three minutes, then pour in the wine, boil off the alcohol, taste and season accordingly.

Lay the fish on top of the veg and roast in a hot oven (220C/425F/gas mark 7) for 35 minutes. Transfer the fish to a serving platter, and stir the vegetables – they should be nicely browned by now. Season and squeeze over lemon juice to taste. Stir to mix: the sauce should be quite thick and emulsified; if not, add a splash of water. Spoon the sauce and veg around the fish and serve.

• Mitch Tonks is chef/co-owner of The Seahorse in Dartmouth, Devon, and the Rockfish restaurants. His latest book, The Seahorse, co-written with Mat Prowse, is published by Absolute Press at £25. To order a copy for £20, go to bookshop.theguardian.com.

Fiona Beckett’s wine matches If you’re using verdicchio in a recipe, you might want to lay in an extra bottle to drink with it. The Classico dei Castelli di Jesi 2014 (£8, Asda, and often on promotion; 12.5% abv) is a reliable favourite. Morrisons does a good one, too. And if you want to go down Mitch’s route of starting with a magnum of rosé, your best bet is Majestic: at £19.99, the Côteaux d’Aix en Provence 2014 (12.5% abv) is the best deal.

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