A while ago on the Reluctant Gourmet Cooking Forum, there was quite a lengthy
discussion of how to properly pan fry or saute fish to prevent it from sticking.
There was so much conversation about it that I thought it would make a good
article. I think we've all experienced that awful feeling when you try to turn
your fish in the pan and it just won't turn. Hopefully this lesson will give you
the tools you need to perfectly cook a piece of
fish.
The first thing to understand about fish is that it is very high in protein
while also being relatively low in fat. This can make for a very healthy meal,
but it also is a recipe for disaster if you don't know what you're doing.
Believe me - I've been there.
Protein sticks. It is what glue is made from. If proteins are allowed to
denature - chemically unravel - slowly, they stick firmly. Ever try to clean up
egg white that has spilled onto and dried on the stove top? It is a mess.
Since proteins stick when they slowly unravel, you have to make sure that
they cook quickly. This means that the heat must be high enough to start setting
the proteins immediately.
As was pointed out in the discussion on the forum, browning doesn't start
until 320° F, so the surface of your pan must be at least that hot before you
add the fish.
Since the temperature in the pan will drop when you add the fish, make sure
that the fish isn't at refrigerator temperature so the heat will recover more
quickly. Take your fish out of the refrigerator at least fifteen to thirty
minutes before cooking.
Preheat a well-seasoned cast iron skillet or other wide, heavy-bottomed pan
over medium-high heat until a few drops of water immediately boil violently and
evaporate after only a couple of seconds. This is a great way to know when a pan
is hot enough to saute or pan fry.
If your recipe says to rinse the fish off before cooking, make sure that you
pat the fish dry. You'll most likely be cooking the fish in butter, oil or some
combination and fat and water don't mix. So make sure you remove as much water
from the surface of the fish as you can.
Add just enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Remember we are talking
about pan frying or sauteing, not shallow frying. The distinction of these terms
will be discussed in a future post because the more I read about these two
cooking techniques, the more confused I get. If you tend to be heavy handed with
the oil, you can just brush some directly on the fish.
Let the oil heat up until it shimmers in the pan before adding the fish. If
you've brushed the oil directly on the dry piece of fish, just place it in the
pan, skin-side down, and let it sit. I say skin side down
because most chefs I've talked to about this say you always put the finished
side (the side that will be seen when plated) down first.
I'm not sure but I think it's because the pan (or grill) is hottest just
before you add the fish and you get the best grill marks. When the fish hits the
pan, it absorbs some of the heat and cools down a little. Doesn't it always seem
the flip side of whatever you're cooking doesn't have as good grill marks?
As I was reading over the forum discussion, one sentence jumped out at me: "I
didn't move it in the pan until it was time to turn." Remember you mom always
tell you not to play with your food? The same is true when cooking fish, or any
protein for that matter, the only way you will know when it is time to turn it
is when the protein naturally releases from the pan.
If you are relying on a recipe's instruction to "turn after three minutes,"
you could run into trouble. When a protein has browned nicely, it will release
from the pan with minimal sticking, if any at all.
Place the fish skin-side first in the pan and do not move it until it lets
you. Adjust the heat so you hear a good sizzle but not any very loud sputtering
and popping, and allow the fish to cook and develop a nice sear. It takes as
long as it takes, but don't walk away from it. You have to be ready to turn it
when it is ready to give.
Once the fish releases, turn the fish and let it cook until it is firm and
opaque but not yet flaking. If you let it flake in the pan, you will end up
overcooking your fish due to carryover cooking. If cooking a thicker cut of fish
to be finished in the oven, the same searing technique applies. Place the
presentation side of the fish in the hot pan and let sear until it releases.
Turn the fish, sear until lightly golden and then finish in the oven until the
fish is firm and opaque but not flaking. Again, carryover cooking comes into
play, so make sure you allow for that.
